The weather is warm, COVID cases are low, and hospitality is reopening. After a long, hard winter, things are looking up. Very up in the case ofFrederic Bar and Bistro in Cremorne,where the three Reymond siblings (who also run Bistro Gitan and L'Hotel Gitan) have persuaded the building owner to let them take over the rooftop of the seven-storey building in which they occupy the street level.

And what a roof. Views take in the MCG and entire city skyline. A portable bar has been set up for beers on tap; champagne and wines chill in buckets and a makeshift kitchen (namely a barbecue and serving station) has been erected to turn out Nick Deligiannis' tasting menu.

It's an impressive thing for a lo-fi set-up, with some items ferried up from the kitchen below: albacore tuna ceviche and bubbled squid ink crackers, COVID-safe individual flatbreads with tarama; grilled asparagus with parmesan custard and crisped chickpeas, goat's cheese toasts and chocolate mousse, among other things.

Three things to know: it's an all-in experience up here, tasting-menu-only for $100 a head (dietaries catered with notice). Reservations can only be secured by calling the office (no online bookings). And, vitally: slip, slop, slap and also bring a jacket. This is a bright and breezy terrace and Melbourne weather, good or bad, can't be tamed.

Frederic in the Sky is open Saturday and Sunday with sittings from noon-2.30pm at 9-11 Cremorne Street, Cremorne. Bookings by phone only, 03 9089 7224.