芦笋厚的好还是薄的好?e·托宾
你可能已经注意到芦笋有不同颜色的绿色;有些带有紫色。澳大利亚的芦笋种植者种植不同品种的芦笋，以跨越生长季节，从9月开始，到3月逐渐消失。有些品种是厚的，有些是薄的，在品种内有些矛长得更厚或更薄。在墨累河岸有一种野生的传家宝品种。我记得大约十年前的这个时候，我和米尔杜拉厨师(现在是当地政客)斯特凡诺·德·皮耶里(Stefano de Pieri)一起采摘火柴棍般细的芦笋。我们一边走，斯特凡诺一边讲述了一个来自澳大利亚南部的Johnny Appleseed的故事——芦笋安妮，如果你愿意的话——她沿着澳大利亚南部的水路种植芦笋。质地细密，几乎带有苦味，味道浓郁，就像芦笋的精华。Stefano选择的菜是一份简单的煎蛋饼，鸡蛋、帕尔玛干酪、一点奶油、盐和胡椒，鸡蛋仍有一点湿，他先用大量特级初榨橄榄油慢慢软化芦笋。多么奢侈的小菜啊。 Thin spears are more intense in flavour and are best steamed or blanched. Blanch thin asparagus and line a vegetable terrine or simmer in chicken stock, puree, chill, season and serve as a cold summer soup with a little chevre. Thicker stems have more moisture and thicker skins and are great grilled or in stir-fries. Render some pancetta in a pan and slowly cook thick asparagus in the fat, dressing with pepper and pecorino. I remove the rubber band around the bunch to stop the spears from bruising, wrap them in a clean cloth and store them in the fridge. I break the woody ends from the asparagus by hand. Asparagus loves salt, extra virgin olive oil, butter, bacon, parmesan, pepper, lemon juice, sherry vinegar, eggs, and jamon.
我用新鲜的马苏里拉奶酪做披萨，但它会让皮变湿。l·西蒙斯
我曾经参观墨尔本内部北部的小奶酪师观看意大利女性手臂拉伸的马苏里拉。在前一天制作的厚实的白色凝乳被切割成一个大型不锈钢碗。然后将热水蒸发在凝固上，将蒸汽卷释放到寒冷的空气中，在白色云层后的新鲜牛奶的香水。凭借不间断的浓度来说，她的黑发紧紧地拉紧在网下，工作了热混合而不爆发，在她的手中冲出，可能是由石棉制成的，并将它们贴在凝乳上，因为它融化成闪亮的质量。她拉了一下融化的奶酪。“Pasta Filata”，她会说，参考湿漉漉的凝乳床单。然后，在眨眼之间，她形成了一个叫牛奶的小抚平皮肤球，因为它由牛奶制成（真正的马苏里拉用水牛牛奶制成）。无论是由牛或水牛牛奶制成的，你会在新鲜的马苏里拉找到相当多的液体。切割或加热时，这种流体会从奶酪中泄漏到地壳中并制作披萨湿度。所以，在烘烤披萨前几个小时，将新鲜的马苏里拉酱切片，放在干净的抹布上，盖上另一个盖子，并在顶部放置烘烤托盘。 This will dry out the cheese and solve your problem. When choosing a fresh mozzarella, avoid one with a short best-before date, make sure the brine it is sold in looks reasonably clear, and the skin is smooth, white, and bright. (Seasonal variations in feed for the cattle or buffalo can result in a slightly more creamy colour.) Keep it in its liquid in the fridge and treat like other perishable food. If you buy the rubbery industrialised version, which is perfect for stretchy cheese toppings on family meals, and struggle to grate it, try freezing it for 30 minutes beforehand. It will be much firmer and easier to use.
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